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Sunday, 18 January 2015

Interview: Agent Carter costume designer Gigi Melton

Previously: A guide to the 1940s costume design of Agent Carter

Agent Carter combines so many of my favorite things: comicbook adventures, a complex female protagonist, 1940s spy hijinks and, of course, beautiful costumes and set design. The post-war setting is a fascinating period to explore from a fashion history perspective, and I was happy to see that all of the costumes have a strong characterization element as well.

Costume designer Giovanna "Gigi" Melton caught my attention on Twitter with her many behind-the-scenes posts about her work on Agent Carter, and she was kind enough to grant me an interview. Read on for more background on the amazing costumes in this show, plus a selection of Melton's original design sketches.


HelloTailor: How did you go about researching and designing the overall look for the show? Were you influenced by any of the comics, or was it more a matter of exploring the 1940s aesthetic?

Gigi Melton: A combination of much research.  For Peggy the influences were Lauren Bacall, Katherine Hepburn, Hedy Lamarr. The smart, strong, fashionable and beautiful women of the era.


For SSR [Strategic Scientific Reserve] agents Dooley, Thompson, Sousa, and Krzmenski I researched government and detective looks. For eccentric Stark it was Howard Hughes and for Jarvis it was a British nod to tweeds. Coupled with comic book research, I took all of my inspiration and tailored it to create the individual looks for the scripted characters.


HelloTailor: I saw that you managed to source at least one vintage dress for Hayley Atwell, which made me wonder how many other costumes are original pieces from the '40s. A lot of historical dramas try to use a mix of vintage costumes and new designs, occasionally with vintage-style underwear to add authenticity to the look. Is this how you worked with Agent Carter?


Gigi Melton: Most of Peggy was built for the show, however there are  a few amazing vintage pieces in her closet.  We have vintage style lingerie but we modify with other pieces as well because of all the action. For Dooley, Thompson, Sousa and Krzmenski , their sport jackets and suits are about half vintage and half custom, all of their ties are vintage. With the exception of vintage ties, Stark and Jarvis are custom.


HelloTailor: How do you deal with creating clothes for action scenes? That must be tricky, especially since Peggy spends so much time wearing skirts.

Gigi Melton: Lots of multiples. As an example: the gold dress in episode one has a built foundation made with cotton trigger [a sturdy type of cloth], all boned so she do the kicking as well as being slammed around. Otherwise the fabric would have ripped. We make blouses and jackets with specific slits to allow for harnesses. For kicks in skirts I have vintage style black silk tap shorts to wear under.

Carter's disguise from episode 1 was inspired by Veronica Lake.

HelloTailor: Could you tell me a little about Peggy's red hat? Did you realize at the time that it was going to become such an important part of her image?

Gigi Melton: The red hat was scripted as:  A red hat in a sea of gray fedoras. For my design I thought,  Peggy is competing in this man's world, and her hat needs to be powerful to match all the fedoras but still be feminine. I truly had no idea it would take off this way.

Note the red, white and blue color scheme!
HelloTailor: I'd love to know more about how you differentiated between the male SSR agents, since they have to wear relatively similar outfits to work each day. Were you aiming to give Sousa a softer look with his cardigans?

Gigi Melton: For our SSR guys Dooley, Thompson, Krzeminski, and Sousa, each have a distinctive look befitting their character. Chief Roger Dooley (Shea Whigham) wears  strong double breasted suits; Jack Thompson (Chad Michael Murray) wears  single breasted with a fashion edge  coupled with suspenders; Daniel Sousa (Enver Gjokaj) wears sweater vests under his sport coats and pleated pants, I chose the sweater vests as a more approachable look, but also one that he could be comfortable with a crutch ; and Ray Krzeminski (Kyle Bornheimer) is a bit of a slob with his sport jacket, and open collar shirts. 

HelloTailor: Finally, Jarvis really stands out from the other male characters. Were you going for a particularly British style with his tailored suits, as opposed to a more American look sported by characters like Jack Thompson?


Gigi Melton: Yes -- I wanted his look to reflect his British roots, and the Jarvis look is very distinctive to all the other characters . The script  described him as a man in a tweed suit. But I wanted him to have a European style and aesthetic as well. So I felt the direction of a suit and vest, balanced with the casual but beautiful tweeds (which Britain is famous for) created a perfect look for his character as butler and front man for Stark. 


Previously: A guide to the 1940s costume design of Agent Carter
Further reading: ABC's featurette on Agent Carter's costumes, and Tyranny of Style's preview interview.
See also: The Bletchley Circle

Tumblr: HelloTailor
Twitter: @Hello_Tailor

33 comments:

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  18. What a wonderful spell caster i have ever meet I almost lost my life when my lover of 6 years left to be with another woman. I cried and sober every day, until it got so bad that I reached out to the Internet for help.And i saw a testimony of a spell caster who help a girl called Clara and i said let me give it a try so i contact him for help and he cast a love spell for me which i use in getting my love back and now i am a happy man.For what you have done for me, i will not stop sharing your good name to people out there for the good work you done for me. I hope God blesses you as much as you have help me to get my Love back, it is ideal i published this on a local newspaper for others to brings more customers to him, he worth more of this and his reward are sure. thanks and visit him on [driraborspellcaster@gmail.com] OR call him direct on +13019098775 is the only answer to your problems

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  19. My name is Felicia, I never thought I will smile again, My husband left me with two kids for one year, All effort to bring him back failed I thought I'm not going to see him again not until I met a lady called Jesse who told me about a spell caster called Dr.UZOYA, She gave me his email address and mobile number and I contacted him and he assured me that within 48 hours my husband will come back to me, In less than 48 hours my husband came back started begging for forgiveness saying it is the devils work, so I'm still surprise till now about this miracle,i couldn't conceive but as soon as the spell was cast,i became pregnant and gave birth to my third child(Michelle) if you need any assistance from him you can contact him via:email [driraborspellcaster@gmail.com] OR call him direct on +13019098775

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  20. Hello viewers, am Mrs Susan from Italy. It happened 19th March, that was the day I we never for get in a hurry, I was into a relationship with a wealthy man unknown to me he was HIV/AIDS positive, I told him to use condom but he said no that he don, t want to used it, he deceive me about him not having any sickness i slept with him and so on, last year I notice my health was very bad and even people around me were asking what happened to me, I decided to do a test the Doctor in St Philomena told me i, m HIV/AIDS positive when I told him what he have done to me, he hang up the call on me, first I wanted to commit suicide until a very good friend of my told how her hiv/aids were cure by Dr Ero I contacted him and explain to him and he told me to for get about the following.
    1) MY PCV I.E (BLOOD LEVEL).
    2) MY CD4 COUNT I.E (MY IMMUNE LEVEL.
    3) MY VIRAL LOAD AND MY VIRAL LOAD WAS 85-90.
    he told my that HIVIDIUM C2 CYRUP HERBAL REMEDY DRUGS CURE HIV/AIDS FASTER AND FOREVER.he prepared the HIVIDIUM C2 CYRUP HERBAL REMEDY DRUGS for me, I took it and he told me to do and there was a great change everything I listed above was restored to normal, I don, t know how to thank Dr. Ero dreroherbaltreatment@gmail.com. for healing my life and making me look 100% healthy.. now I have learnt my lesson, so is true that HIV/AIDS have a cure and is only HIVIDIUM C2 CYRUP HERBAL REMEDY DRUGS. don, t doubt his drugs that cure any manner of disease is truly a soul sever. contact him through dreroherbaltreatment@gmail.com or number +2349077338035
    he also cure herpes, cancer, kidney, hepatitis and lot more.

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  21. i am here to give testimony of how i got back my husband, we got married for more than 9 years and have gotten two kids. thing were going well with us and we are always happy. until one day my husband started to behave in a way i could not understand, i was very confused by the way he treat me and the kids. later that month he did not come home again and he called me that he want a divorce, i asked him what have i done wrong to deserve this from him, all he was saying is that he want a divorce that he hate me and do not want to see me again in his life, i was mad and also frustrated do not know what to do,i was sick for more than 2 weeks because of the divorce. i love him so much he was everything to me without him my life is incomplete. i told my sister and she told me to contact a spell caster, i never believe in all this spell casting of a thing. i just want to try if something will come out of it. i contacted (24hourslovespell@gmail.com ) for the return of my husband to me, they told me that my husband have been taken by another woman, that she cast a spell on him that is why he hate me and also want us to divorce. then they told me that they have to cast a spell on him that will make him return to me and the kids, they casted the spell and after 1 week my husband called me and he told me that i should forgive him, he started to apologize on phone and said that he still live me that he did not know what happen to him that he left me. it was the spell that he traditional spell hospital casted on him that make him comeback to me today,me and my family are now happy again today. thank you for what you have done for me i would have been nothing today if not for your great spell. i want you my friends who are passing through all this kind of love problem of getting back their husband, wife , or ex boyfriend and girlfriend to contact 24hourslovespell@gmail.com . call or whatsapp +2347059073543 and you will see that your problem will be solved without any delay.

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  22. My name is Jennifer am from uk I am out here to spread this good news to the entire world on how I got my husband back.I was going crazy when my husband left me and my two kids for another woman last month, But when i met a friend that introduced me to Dr Osuko of temple of grace, the great messenger to the oracle. I narrated my problem to him about how my Husband left me and my two kids.He only said to me that i have come to the right place were i will be getting my heart desire without any delay .He told me what i need to do,After it was been done 3 day later,My Husband called me on the phone and was saying sorry for living me and the kids before now and one week after my Husband called me to be pleading for forgiveness.I am so happy and overwhelmed that i have to tell this to the entire world to contact Dr Osuko on his personal email address and get all your problem solved.No problem is too big for him to solve..Contact him directly on: osukospelltemple@gmail.com and your problem will be solved.can email him on his email address: osukospelltemple@gmail.com

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  23. I want to express myself to the world and tell them about the great thing that Dr.Ogudugu whose contact details are +2348142250751, greatogudugu@gmail.com or http://greatdrogudugusolutiontemple.webs.com/, Dr.Ogudugu was the great man that brought back my lover to me within the period of 48hours and the amazing thing was that Dr.Ogudugu never asked me for anything in return i only paid for the items he used in casting the spell and that was all. As i am writing now my lover is still with me treating me with care and showing me so much love thanks to Dr.Ogudugu. My name is Ana and i am from Los Angeles in USA.

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  26. I am Carey Joel by name. Greetings to every one that is reading this testimony. I have been rejected by my Husband after three(3) years of marriage just because another woman had a spell on him and he left me and the kid to suffer. one day when i was reading through the web, i saw a post on how this spell caster on this address:drotoidesolutiontemple@gmail.com, how he have help a woman to get back her husband and i gave him a reply to his address and he told me that a woman had a spell on my husband and he told me that he will help me and after 2 days that i will have my husband back. i believed him and today i am glad to let you all know that this spell caster have the power to bring lovers back. because i am now happy with my husband.Thanks for Dr.OTOIDE his email:drotoidesolutiontemple@gmail.com or his phone number:+2347089081873 or his website:https://drotoidesolutionte.wixsite.com/dr-otoide

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  27. Hi everyone, I sincerely hope my post gets read and hopefully helps somebody along the line.i will never forget the help the GREAT ILLUOBE render to me in my marital life.The only person that i can boldly say he can cure HERPES SIMPLEX VIRUS and any other kind of disease like CANCER,HIV/AIDS,LOW SPERM COUNT,MENOPAUSE DISEASE, ALS know as ( Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis) and can also solve any relationship problem is this great herbalist man called Dr ILLUOBE. Friends your case is not too hard why don’t you give The GREAT ILLUOBE a try and let him work surprises because i know he will cure you of the disease and also help bring back your WIFE or HUSBAND that has left you as the case may be. You can contact him via Website: http://drilluobetemple.webs.com email: drilluobe_herbalpractitioner@outlook.com or call or whatsapp +2348109031502 or my email lisamcclean360@gmail.com

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  28. Hi Everyone,
    I'm from United Kingdom London, City(GB). I met this spell caster called Dr. Ogudugu of greatogudugu@gmail.com online and so many other, but i decided to go with this particular spell caster and this is about 2 weeks ago.I needed the spell caster to reunite me and my lover because she started behaving strange and a day came she text me and told me she cannot continue with the relationship anymore, that she just want to be alone.But a close friend of hers shows the guy to me that she was now dating.So i contacted this spell caster because i was totally heart broken and i smoked and get drunk till i could not even notice if am standing or lying.This spell caster told me not to worry, he gave me hope that am to have her again just like old times, and i provided all the requirements, and in just 5 days, my ex lover called me crying over the phone asking for me to forgive her for her stupid act, and she swore with her mother grave to love me and never hurt me again.This was what the spell caster earlier told me and it came after he has done the spell and that same night, my lover came back to the house to me. I have never seen spell as powerful as this but now, am convinced that Dr. Ogudugu is the best ever, You can contact him through him email address: greatogudugu@gmail.com And also Reach him on WhatsApp Number:+2348139793075 Thanks Dr. Ogudugu Website: http://greatdrogudugusolutiontemple.webs.com/

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