Glad to see that Belstaff has moved on from designing motorcycle jackets and Sherlock's swishy coat and has now adopted "hipster Nazgul" as a style theme.
|All photos via Style.com|
This season seems to be dominated by the monochrome palette, which was an unusual choice for the ordinarily colourful Agi & Sam. I'm not as wild about Agi & Sam as some people (they're kind of the darlings of young British menswear right now), but I prefer their earlier work to this particular collection, which relied too much on grey and white checks and the kind of loose tailoring that makes most people look awkwardly gangly. I was interested to read up on their influences though, with many of this season's prints turning out to be inspired by Masai clothing.
OK, so you kind of know what you're going to get with Alexander Wang. Soft, comfortable-looking street sportswear, but priced at a level that you can only afford if you personally have the ability to lay Faberge eggs. It's not something that I'm personally into, but I respect his expertise and I love the boots this year, very badass.
This season's Balmain will be an A+ choice if you're sylphlike 19-year-old guy who doesn't mind looking like a vaguely bitchy and incongruously rich art gallery intern, but it probably doesn't have much of an audience outside of that specific demographic.
Balmain are way better known for their womenswear, which usually cleaves close to the formula of very shiny, detailed dresses and short, tailored jackets. I find their menswear a little harder to pin down. The best descriptor I can think of is that their mens' clothing looks A LOT like it should be worn by a K-pop boyband, possibly thanks to the overabundance of slim, decorated jackets and boyish models.
Berluti can get it, basically. This whole collection was classic from beginning to end, and I recommend googling some reviews from the actual show because the craftsmanship behind these clothes is incredible. Despite what my blog title may imply, I'm not actually a tailor, but it certainly sounds impressive to me that some of the coats in this collection involved sandwiching a "membrane" of wool between two layers of boiled cashmere for extra warmth and durability.
Not McQueen or Sarah Burton's most exciting work to date, but still a solid collection. Particularly if you, like me, are kind of a goth. The fashion show's music included Bela Lugosi's Dead by Bauhaus, and many of the models wore crow feathers in their hair.