Yohji YamamotoMany designers take a stab at the loosely-tailored casual suit, but in my opinion none of them ever measure up to Yohji Yamamoto. I rarely post other designers' attempts because they tend to look like ill-fitting pajamas, but with Yamamoto there's always a real solid elegence to his menswear, highlighted by his model choices. Yamamoto is a great proponent of using "real"-looking models, something that's always more common in menswear runway shows than in women. He's right, as well... a sylphlike 18-year-old wouldn't look nearly as good in outfits like this as this guy:
At the other end of the spectrum we have the perfect -- yes, perfect -- tailoring of Burberry, brand of the dapper and beautiful young man who likes to imagine that he's just on the way back from a grouse hunt in 1915, but who in fact is probably a graphic designer.
I love this pattern. There's something about it that almost edges it into 90s territory (and therefore tackiness), but most of the outfits seemed to pull it off somehow.
Brick pattern. Not really to my tastes -- too much like a Windows 95 background -- but I post it because...
...a couple of days later, Gaultier showed something suspiciously similar. Did one steal the idea from the other? Did they both go to the same street-art show? We may never know. But both shows also featured outfits made up from grey brick-print trousers and dark jackets, later on. My personal favourite is Gaultier, though, although in general the Gaultier show didn't live up to my expectations.
Umit Benan's was a concept show, and another one modeled by non-professionals -- although it might be inaccurate to describe them as Elizabeth Hurley's "civilians". The entire show was solidly military, reflecting Benan's interest in military service -- an obligation that under Turkish law, he still has to undertake. The show was heavily masculine and to my eye, not as imaginative as it could have been, but I'm far from the target audience for Umit Benan's designs. Some items such as this jacket -- a rare example of leather sleeves looking OK -- stood out for me, though. The collar and buttoning pattern in particular caught my eye, and almost make up for the sack-like appearance of the trousers.
Yet another collection of attractive but yawn-inducing Cavalli menswear, occasionally spruced up by outfits such as this one, which made me think of possible costumes for the upcoming Hunger Games movie.
Kris Van Asshe
Do these jackets look like straightjackets? Possibly, but I like them nontheless. There's a certain danger of over-cinching, though.
Paul & Joe
A splendid combination of modern and old-fashioned suitmaking.
Presented without comment.